Nestled into the southern Gulf Islands of British Columbia — a picture-perfect collection of 200-some islands, reefs and ecological gems in the Straight of Georgia between Vancouver Island and the mainland — is Twin Island Cider. Amid tall, old fruit trees flourishing on south Pender Island, Twin Island grows its own apples on an estate for its ciders, in addition to heirloom apples from nearby Mayne and Saturna Islands. The last three years have brought prosperity for the team, grafting and planting 1,200 dwarf and semi-standard trees with bittersweets, bittersharps and other mixed-use apples for the function of farm-crafted, tannin-sculpted cider. The effort shines through in the Old Growth Dry from the 2017 harvest, a batch of cider made exclusively from Gulf Island heirloom apples. A bouquet of fresh apricot, Meyer lemon and green apple fill the glass when first poured, while earth and limestone develop in the wings with air. Green apple pulls through strongest on the palate with dusty earth, dazzling acid and a soft hug of tannins as the liquid leave. Approachable and apple-forward to draw you in, with alluring complexity to keep you around.
