A limited-run, small-batch release from Golden State Cider in Sebastopol, California, The Elder Tree narrows in on the apple in a dual-variety showcase. Mostly from the cidery’s organic orchard and others nearby, Newtown Pippin and Arkansas Black apples are pressed, fermented and aged for up to 12 months in oak in this unfiltered, bone-dry, “farmhouse-style” cider — and in a 16-ounce can. Though the farm-funk keeps out of the aromas of Bartlett pear, yellow apple and tart apricot, a wave of creamy, bread-y texture splashes the palate before it’s cleared by tart green apple, orange fruits and drying acid. Match with a fresh, creamy cow’s milk cheese to laser through the fat.
